Wild Ginger

Good curries are as individual as their cooks an reminiscent of great jazz where masterful creations emanate from a basic theme. So, here's a basic theme - a master curry recipe - which you can build upon, deviate from, take flight and make it your own. Experiment. Have fun.

INGREDIENTS
Whole Spice Blend (Optional)
1 1/2 cinnamon sticks (3-inches)
4 whole cloves
4 green cardamom pods
8 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf

Curry
1/4 cup vegetable oil ( or canola oil)
1 medium onion , sliced thin
4 large cloves garlic , pureed in a minichopper with 1 tablespoon water (about 2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon fresh ginger , pureed in a minichopper with 1-2 teaspoons water
1 1/2 pounds top sirloin or boneless leg of lamb, trimmed and cut into 3/4-inch cubes, or 6 chicken thighs, skinned, or 1 1/2 pounds shrimp, peeled and deveined
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
Table salt
3 plum tomatoes (canned), chopped, plus 1 tablespoon juice, or 2/3 cup crushed tomato, or 1/2 cup plain low-fat yogurt
2 bunches spinach (1 1/2 pounds), stemmed, thoroughly washed, and chopped coarse (optional)
1 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
2 cups water
1 jalapeño chile , stemmed and cut in half through the stem end
1/2 cup Indian split peas (channa dal), or 4 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes, or 4 medium zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch cubes, or 1 cup green peas
2 - 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves (use the lesser amount if you've already added the optional cilantro)

PREPARATION
1. Heat oil in large deep skillet or soup kettle, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking. If using whole spice blend, add to oil and cook, stirring with wooden spoon until cinnamon stick unfurls and cloves pop, about 5 seconds. If omitting whole spice blend, simply add onion to skillet; sauté until softened, 3 to 4 minutes, or browned, 5 to 7 minutes.
2. Stir in garlic, ginger, selected meat (except shrimp), ground spices, 1/2 teaspoon of salt, and tomatoes or yogurt; cook, stirring almost constantly, until liquid evaporates, oil separates and turns orange, and spices begin to fry, 5 to 7 minutes, depending on skillet or kettle size. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until spices smell cooked, about 30 seconds longer.
3. Stir in optional spinach and/or cilantro. Add the water and jalapeño and season with salt; bring to simmer. Reduce heat; cover and simmer until meat is tender, 20 to 30 minutes for chicken, 30 to 40 minutes for beef or lamb.
4. Add selected vegetable (except green peas); cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro. Add shrimp and/or peas if using. Simmer 3 minutes longer and serve.

If you're the type of American who believes Chile was invented in Texas, than this dish isn't what you're expecting and might prefer to call it "Meat in Red Chile Sauce". This is a more traditional Mexican recipe that uses pork, not beef and no beans or tomatoes. Just good, toasted chilis and meat simmered to perfection. This is a dish well served in a burrito or tamale or just served in a bowl with hot, fresh tortillas. Props to Rick Bayless from whom this recipe is shamlessly swiped and minimally altered.

INGREDIENTS
8 medium (about 2½ ounces total) dried chiles de teierra
     New Mexico or California chiles,stemmed, seeded and deveined
3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped
½ medium white onion, roughly chopped
1 tbsp. dried oregano
½ tsp. cumin seeds (or a generous ½ tsp. ground)
1½ tbsp lard or vegetable oil
1½ lbs lean, bonelss pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
½ tsp salt or to taste

PREPARATION
The chiles
Heat a comal or heavy skillet over medium heat and tear the chiles into flat pieces. Toast them on the hot surface a few at a time, pressing them down firmly with a metal spatula for a few seconds until they crackle and change color (they should turn very dark, even near black). Then flip them over and press down for a few seconds more. Remove from comal or skillet and put in a bowl, covering with boiling water - make sure to weight them down to keep them submerged, soaking for half an hour, then drain and reserve 1 cup of soaking liquid.

The sauce
Transfer the chiles and reserved liquid to a blender jar, adding garlic, onion and oregeno. Pulverize the cumin seeds in a mortar or spice grinder and add to the chile mixture in the blender. Blend mixture until smooth, then strain through a medium mesh sieve or cheesecloth.

Frying the meat
Heat lard or oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Make sure the pork is dry (use a papertowel if necessary), then lay in the hot skillet in an single layer without crowding the meat - fry in batches if necessary. Fry until meat is browned, about ten minutes, turning and scraping the pan frequently.

Simmering and Finishing
Add the puréed chile mixture to the pan and continue to fry for 4-5 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom frequently until the purée is thick and notabley darker than when you poured it into the pan.

Scrape the mixture into a medium-sized sauce pan, stirring in salt and 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil, partially cover and simmer over memdium-low heat, stirring occasionally for 45 minutes to 1 hour until the meat is very tender; if the sauce thickens beyond the consistency of heavy cream, add a little more water. Taste for salt and add if necessary.

Serve with warm tortillas - I like to add freshly chopped white onion and cilantro as a topping, with a wedge of lime on the side.

If there's a basic toolkit for Mexican cooking, it contains basic red chile and green chile recipes. This one is about as simple as it gets for a chile verde. You could substitute a medium sized tomato for the tomatillos if you like (don't bother roasting them beforehand as you would the tomatillos) - different but acceptable for gringos.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb. pork shoulder cut into 1-inch cubes
4 green chiles, peeled and chopped
     long green chiles, not Serrano.
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tomatillos
1 cup boiling water
Salt & Pepper

PREPARATION
The Tomatillos
Peel the papery husks from the tomatillos, wash them and stem them and cut them into quarters. Heat a comal or heavy skillet on medium-high heat and place the tomatillos on the fully heated surface. Cook tomatillos pieces all all sides until each side gets black spots on them. Be careful not to cook so long that they get too squishy to remove with tongs. Take out of skillet and place aside.

The Chile
Sauté pork in oil until well browned. Drain off all but 1 tablespoon of oil/fat. Heat again and add chopped chiles, garlic, onion cooking for about 1 minute. Add tomatillo pieces and water, season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover tightly and simmer 1 hour.

I grew up in the Los Angeles area, near Hollywood where the Musso & Frank Grill is an institution. This simple and classic recipe for lamb shanks is theirs, proudly served for the last 88 years.

INGREDIENTS
4 lamb shanks
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
     Salt & pepper
8 medium carrots, cut in 1-inch pieces
8 small Crimini mushrooms (caps only)
8 small slice celery
1 (8-oz.) can of tomato sauce
1 cup peas (frozen are fine)

PREPARATION

• Sprinkle the lamb shanks with garlic and season to taste with salt and pepper
• Bake at 350°F for 30 minutes, turning frequently to brown on all sides
• Add carrots, onions, mushrooms, celery, and tomato sauce
• Bake at 375°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until meat is tender
• Add peas after 30 minutes baking time

Ultimate comfort food? French onion soup! This is such a wonderful concoction and the secret is two-fold: first, use the best quality stock you can. Now, this recipe calls for both beef and chicken broth and its a tall order to have home made beef and chicken broth on hand - but do what you can. The second secret is slow cooking the onions. The longer and slower the cooking of the onions, the greater the effect of the carmelization.

This recipe draws largely on Alton Brown's method, starting with his technique of using an electric skillet which allows you to perfectly control the temperature for long, slow cooked onions. Heck, Cherie bought one just for this purpose (though we've found it handy for so many other uses, too). The other surprise addition for some might be the cider which imparts more than just sweetness to the soup - go for the unfiltered if you can.

INGREDIENTS
3 large, sweet onions, preferabley Vidalias or Maui onions
2 large red onions (total weight of all five onions should be about 4 pounds)
3 tbsp butter
1 tsp salt
2 cups white wine
10 oz beef broth
10 oz chicken broth
10 oz apple unfiltered apple cider
Bouquet garni: thyme sprigs, bay leaf and parsley tied together with kitchen string
1 loaf crusty french bread
Kosher salt
Ground black pepper
Splash of brandy, cognac or amagnac (optional)
1½ cups Gruyere cheese, grated plus two handfuls (or more to taste) of grated Parmesan chees

PREPARATION

• Trim the ends off each onion then halve lengthwise. Remove peel and finely slice into half moon shapes.
• Set electric skillet to 300 degrees and add butter. Once butter has melted add a layer of onions and sprinkle with a little salt. Repeat layering onions and salt until all onions are in the skillet. Do not try stirring until onions have sweated down for 15 to 20 minutes. After that, stir occasionally until onions are dark mahogany and reduced to approximately 2 cups. This should take 45 minutes to 1 hour. Do not worry about burning.
• Add enough wine to cover the onions and turn heat to high, reducing the wine to a syrup consistency.
• Add consume, chicken broth, apple cider and bouquet garni. Reduce heat and simmer 15 to 20 minutes.
• Place oven rack in top 1/3 of oven and heat broiler.
• Cut French bread in rounds large enough to fit mouth of oven safe soup crocks.
• Place the slices on a baking sheet and place under broiler for 1 minute.
• Season soup mixture with salt, pepper and cognac. Remove bouquet garni and ladle soup into crocks leaving one inch to the lip.
• Place bread round, toasted side down, on top of soup and top with grated cheese. Broil until cheese is bubbly and golden, 1 to 2 minutes.

This is a classic Moghul recipe for lamb with spinach. The spinach should be cut in small pieces: hold a handful at a time in a tight wad and slice, crosswise, into fine strips. Serve with Indian breads (or rice), and a yogurt dish.

INGREDIENTS
1¼ lbs. boneless lamb shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
4 tsp peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
7 garlic cloves, crushed to a pulp
2 tbsp ground coriander
5 tbsp corn or peanut oil
1 cup onion, sliced into very fine half-rings
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
¾ to 1½ tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
4 tbsp plain yogurt
1 lb fresh spinach, washed and cut into fine ribbons (see above)

PREPARATION

• In a bowl, mix the meat, ginger, garlic, and coriander and set aside for 30 minutes.
• Pour the oil into a heavy, lidded, large pan and set over medium heat. When hot, stir in the onions, and fry them, turning the heat down as needed, until they are golden red and crisp. Remove the onions with a slotted spoon and spread them out on a paper towel, leaving as much of the oil behind as possible.
• Reduce the heat to medium, and put in all the meat, together with its marinade. Add the turmeric, cayenne pepper, and salt, and stir for 1 minute. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, removing the lid occasionally to stir the contents.
• Remove the lid and add 1 tablespoon of the yogurt. Cook, stirring, until the yogurt is absorbed. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of the yogurt in this way, 1 tablespoon at a time. Then stir in the spinach.
• Chop the fried onions and add these as well. Continue to stir until the spinach has wilted. Then cover the pan and cook over very low heat for 50 minutes, or until the meat is tender, lifting the lid to stir now and then. If the liquid seems to have dried up completely, add a few tablespoons of water at a time and cover again. The spinach should cling to the meat.

Equally good on a hot summer day as on a cold wintery one, well made Hot and Sour Soup is a perfect example of balance in Chinese food. Heat, sharpness and sweetness should meld in equal harmony.

Preferably, you will use Chinese black vinegar - if you are not able to find some (or are too lazy to get some!), you can use a combination of red wine vinegar and balsamic vinegar: (1 tablespoon red wine vinegar plus 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar ). If not hot enough for your taste, add more white pepper. White pepper is preferred to black pepper in Chinese cooking because it imparts not only heat but fragrance.

Go the extra distance and make with home made chicken stock rather than canned broth. The flavorful reward in this dish will be worth it.

INGREDIENTS
7 oz square firm or extra-firm tofu , drained (½ package, usually)
4 tbsp. soy sauce (Chinese style, preferred)
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
3 tbso, cornstarch , plus an additional 1 1/2 teaspoons
6 oz. pork, trimmed of fat and cut into matchsticks (pork butt or meat from a pork chop are fine)
3 tbsp. cold water , plus 1 additional teaspoon
1 large egg
3 pints chicken stock
1 cup bamboo shoots ( one 5-ounce can), sliced lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick strips
4 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms , stems removed, caps sliced 1/4 inch thick (about 1 cup)
5 tbsp. black Chinese vinegar
2 tsp. chili oil (see note above)
1 tsp. ground white pepper
3 medium scallions , sliced thin

PREPARATION

• To remove excess moisture from tofu, put the square of tofu on a deep plate with a heavy plate on top, weighted down by a coupld of heavy cans. Let it stand for 15 minute or until the tofu has release about 4 ounces of water.
• Whisk 1 tablespoon soy sauce, sesame oil, and 1 teaspoon cornstarch in a bowl; toss pork with marinade and set aside for at least 10 minutes (but no more than 30 minutes).
• Combine 3 tablespoons cornstarch with 3 tablespoons water in a bowl and mix thoroughly. Set aside.
• Mix remaining 1/2 teaspoon cornstarch with remaining 1 teaspoon water in small bowl; add egg and beat with fork until combined. Set aside.
• Bring broth to boil in large saucepan set over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and add bamboo shoots and mushrooms - simmer until mushrooms are just tender, about 5 minutes. While broth simmers, dice tofu into 1/2-inch cubes.
• Add tofu and pork (including marinade) to soup - give a good stir. Simmer 2 minutes until pork is cooked (2-3 minutes).
• Stir cornstarch mixture again to recombine and add to soup. Increase heat to medium-high; cook, stirring occasionally, until soup thickens and turns translucent, about 1 minute. Stir in vinegar, chili oil, pepper, and remaining 3 tablespoons soy sauce; turn off heat.
• Without stirring soup, use soupspoon to slowly drizzle very thin streams of egg mixture into pot in circular motion. Let soup sit 1 minute, then return saucepan to medium-high heat. Bring soup to gentle boil, then immediately remove from heat. Gently stir soup once to evenly distribute egg; ladle into bowls and top with scallions.

Admittedly, Boeuf Bourguignon is a stew. And, as stews go, this one's a lot of work. But Boeuf Bourguignon is decidedly the King of Stew, and well worth the effort. It's not just the unctuous goodness of the meet braised in wine, but that Gallic balance of the holy trinity with a bouquet garni. This is the ultimate comfort food in my book.

Do not skimp on the wine, or at least use a decent one. I don't think you should cook with a wine or spirit that you wouldn't drink on its own and it particularly important here because the wine imparts its flavor so dominantly in this dish. In fact, if you make it your rule to serve a bottle of the same wine with your dish, you'll likely choose well.

Serve over new potatoes with butter and parsley with a side of a simple fresh vegetable - root veggies or a squash are great for Autumn or Winter, greens in the Spring.

INGREDIENTS
½ lb thick-sliced bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 lb boneless beef chuck, cut into 2-inch pieces
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 ½ tbsp unsalted butter
½ cup brandy
1 piece of celery
4 fresh parsley stems (no leaves)
4 fresh thyme sprigs
2 bay leaves
2 cloves
2 onions, finely chopped
3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 carrots, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 (750-ml) bottle dry red wine - Pinot Noir, Merlot or a nice burgundy (use a bottle that you would enjoy drinking)
1 lb small (1 1/2-inch) boiling onions or pearl onions (frozen is fine)
½ lb mushrooms, quartered if large

Best served over peeled boiled potatoes tosseed with butter and parsley - new potatoes or fingerlings are perfect.

PREPARATION

Shepard's pie is another classic comfort food and one of my favorites. Most people tend to make it with ground meat, and I've specified that in the recipe for simplicity, but I highly recommend using left overs from a leg of lamb if you have it - chop the meat up and top with leftover gravy, too, if you've got it!

INGREDIENTS
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
1 pound ground lamb
1 cup beef or chicken broth
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 tsp chopped fresh or dry rosemary
1 tbsp chopped Italian parsley
1 cup frozen peas
2 lbs. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup milk
Kosher salt to taste

PREPARATION

• Heat oven to 375°F
• Heat oil in a large skillet
• Add onion, carrot, and meat - cook until meat is browned, 8 to 10 minutes.
• Drain fat and add broth, tomato paste, and herbs. Simmer until juices thicken, about 10 minutes
• Add peas.
• Pour mixture into a 1 1/2-quart baking dish - set aside.
• Bring potatoes to a boil in salted water - cook until tender (about 20 minutes) and drain.
• Mash potatoes with butter, milk & salt.
• Spread mashed potatoes over meat mixture - crosshatch top with a fork
• Bake 30 to 35 minutes until top is golden brown

I'll post some scruptious, true curry dishes but this simple version of curry is how I loved to learn Lamb Curry (admitedly, without the apples, usually). If we had a leg of lamb on Sunday, chances are I could count on this dish on Tuesday. Best made with leftovers from a roast, this recipes assumes that's how you'll make it!

INGREDIENTS
1 large onion, roughly chopped
2 tbsp butter
2 cups cooked lamb in medium sized pieces
2 tbsp flour
1 ¼ cups of chicken stock
2 tsp perpared curry powder
2 tart apples, peeled and cut into wedges
Salt and ground pepper to taste

PREPARATION

• Saute onions in butter slowly in a large, heavy skillet until onions are transluscent
• Addd the lamb and spinkle on flour when meat is warmed through - stir to blend in thoroughly with lamb and onions
• Add hot stock, stirring until consistantly thickened.
• Add curry, apples, salt and pepper and simmer, covered for 5 to 10 minutes.

Server with "Little Boys" - seperate ramikans containing golden raisins, chopped peanuts, chopped scallions, chutney, and chopped egg for diners to garnish the top of curry after served.

This is a delicious Burmese curry. Its fairly hot, so if you're not a love of hot chili, you might want to try making initially with only a single chili. I like it with three..or one fresh and two dried is also wonderful. This recipe can be served with steamed rice or Chinese vermicelli rice noodles.

INGREDIENTS
For the paste
4 garlic cloves, crushed and finely chopped
1 bsp freshly grated ginger
2 red chiles, seeded and chopped
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
1 tsp turmeric
1 handful chopped fresh cilantro
1 handful chopped Thai basil leaves

For the beef
2 tbsp peanut oil
2 shallots, peeled and chopped
1 tbsp shrimp paste
12 oz. sirloin steak, cubed
1 ¼ cups coconut milk
1 lemongrass stalk, chopped
½ tsp brown sugar
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tbsp fish sauce

PREPARATION
Preparing the paste

• Blend all the paste ingredients together.

Preparing the beef

• Heat a wok over high heat, add the oil and stir fry the shallots with the shrimp paste for less than 1 minute. Add the paste ingredients and stir fry for 1 minute. Add the steak and stir fry for 2 minutes until browned on all sides.
• Stir in the coconut milk. (For a thinner sauce, you could also add a little chicken stock at this stage. For a creamier curry, you could add some coconut cream.) Add the lemongrass, the brown sugar, ground coriander and fish sauce. Bring to the boil and sprinkle with a handful of chopped fresh cilantro and Thai basil leaves.
• Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the vermicelli rice noodles according to the packet instructions, drain and place in 2 serving bowls. Ladle curry over the noodles and serve immediately.

I'm not sure where I got this recipe, but its been living various hard disks in my life for at least 15 years. If its yours, I apologize for snarfing with no credit.

Anyhow - a Cassoulet is a traditional dish from the South of France that's a staple in the winter. No wonder I love it - its a stew, usually made with lovely products from the charcouterie: sausage, duck confit, yum. Serve with a crusty bread, a salad and a nice bottle of wine.A perfect meal, in my humble opinion.

INGREDIENTS
2 lbs small white beans such as Great Northern, soaked overnight in plenty of cold water
½ pound salt pork or thick-cut bacon, blanched
2 halved onions and 1 chopped onion
1 smashed garlic clove and 1 minced glove
Bouquet garni: 4 sprigs parsley, 3 sprigs thyme, and 2 bay leaves
2 quarts chicken stock
1 pound pork sausages
4 tbsp rendered duck fat or olive oil
1 cup dry white wine
1½ pounds red tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped, or one 28-ounce can of tomatoes
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 whole confit of duck, cut in 8 pieces, or 8 whole legs, halved on the bone
1 ½ cups toasted bread crumbs

PREPARATION

• Drain and put them in an 8-quart casserole with the bacon, the halved onions, the smashed garlic, bouquet garni, and chicken stock. Bring to a boil over moderately high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer over low heat, uncovered, for about an hour. Remove the bacon and cut it into 1-inch pieces. Strain the beans, reserving both the beans and the cooking liquid and discarding the onions and bouquet garni. Set the beans aside in a bowl.
• To cook the sausages, prick each one in two places with a fork and put them in the bottom or a 10-inch sauté pan with 1/4 inch water. Cook over medium heat, turning from time to time, until the water has evaporated and the sausages are browned on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove them and cut at an angle into 1-inch pieces.
• Add 2 tablespoons of the duck fat to the pan with the chopped onion and cook, stirring from time to time until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add the minced garlic and continue to cook and stir for another minute. Add the white wine and cook for another minute. Stir in the tomatoes and continue cooking for another 5 minutes, stirring from time to time. Season well with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
• To assemble the cassoulet, layer one-third of the beans on the bottom of the casserole and add half the bacon or salt pork, sausages, and duck confit (on the bone). Cover this layer with half the tomato mixture. Repeat with another third of the beans and the remaining bacon, sausages, and duck confit. Cover this with the rest of the tomatoes and then the beans. Add salt and pepper to taste to the bean-cooking liquid. Pour in enough of the bean liquid to come up just to the top of the beans. Cover the entire cassoulet with bread crumbs, dot with the remaining 2 tablespoons duck fat, and bake in a 350-degree oven for an hour and 15 minutes, or until the bread crumbs have formed a crust. You can break through the crust with the back of a spoon three or four times during the cooking to allow the juices to help form a crust.

More comfort food; a Cuban classic. The addition of a little fresh lime juice just before serving adds a Caribbean brightness to this unctuous dish. Skip the immersion blender if you want a more rustic soup.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb dried black (turtle) beans, picked over for dirt or debris
3 tbsp olive oil
1 smoked ham hock
3 medium onions (preferabley white onions), chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 large red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
2 tbsp chili powder
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 tbsp minced garlic
¼ cup tomato paste
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup light rum
Freshly squeezed juice from half a lime

Sour cream
Chopped scallions or chives

PREPARATION

• Rinse the beans in cold water, drain them, put in a bowl, cover by 1-inch with cold water, and let soak in the refrigerator overnight. (Alternatively, you can quick-soak the beans by covering them with water in a pot. Bring to a boil over high heat, then cover the pot and turn off the heat. Let the beans soak until tender, 1 to 2 hours.
• When ready to make the soup, drain the beans and set them aside.
• Pour the oil into a large, heavy-bottomed pot and set it over medium heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, add the ham hock, onions, peppers, celery, chili powder, and cumin. Sauté until the vegetables are softened but not browned, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for an additional 3 minutes, stirring to make sure you don't scorch the tomato or garlic.
• Pour 4 quarts water into the pot, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add the beans to the pot, stir, and when the water returns to a boil, lower the heat and let simmer until the beans are tender but still holding their shape, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
• Remove the pot from the heat and season the soup with salt and pepper. Use tongs to remove the ham hock and set it aside to cool. The beans are like molten lava at this point and ready to explode, so let them cool for 10 to 15 minutes, then purée with an immersion blender or in small batches in a standing blender. When the hock is cool enough to handle, pick off the meat and set it aside. The soup and meat can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated separately for up to 1 week.
• When ready to serve, return the soup to a boil and add the rum and ham (remove meat from the bone and chop if necessary). Cook for 2 minutes more.
• Just before serving, pour in fresh lime juice and stir to incorporate.
• Ladle the soup into 6 to 8 bowls and garnish each serving with a tablespoon of sour cream and a scattering of scallions.

My Indian friends tell me that this is more of a Lahori-style curry than something you'd find in the middle or South of India (Lohore is an ancient city, now located in Pakistan). It's a bit more "rustic", with roughly chopped chicken still on the bone and large chunks of potatoe in it. Its a very simple curry, with a short list of ingredients so its a good introduction to making your own curry. Make sure to use the whole spices here - it makes a huge difference.

INGREDIENTS
One 4 lb chicken, cut into 8 to 10 pieces and skinned
3 medium red boiling potatoes, peeled and quartered
¾ tsp turmeric
½ tsp cayenne pepper
Salt
1½ medium onions, roughly diced
5 garlic cloves
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut in half crosswise
3 tbsp canola oil
1-inch piece cinnamon stick
12 green cardamom pods
9 whole cloves
10 black peppercorns
3 whole dried red chiles
1 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp cumin seeds
1 fresh hot green chile, cut in half
2 large tomatoes, chopped
2 tbsp tomato paste
frac14; cup plain yogurt, whisked until smooth
1 cup water
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
Juice of 1 lemon

PREPARATION

• Combine the chicken, potatoes, 1/2 teaspoon of the turmeric, 1/4 teaspoon of the cayenne, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in a bowl and stir to coat the chicken and potato with the spices. Let stand while you make the sauce.
• Finely mince the onions, garlic, and ginger in a food processor and set aside.
• Combine 2 tablespoons of the oil, the cinnamon stick, cardamom, cloves, black peppercorns, red chiles, coriander, and cumin in a large casserole over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring, until the cinnamon unfurls, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the minced onion mixture, the green chile, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring, until the vegetables brown around the edges, 10 to 15 minutes.
• Remove the cinnamon and green chile, and stir in the remaining 1/4 teaspoon turmeric and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Transfer to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth; set aside.
• Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the same pan over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and potatoes and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Add the yogurt, 1 tablespoon at a time, and stir well after each addition. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes, to evaporate some of the moisture.
• Add the puréed tomato mixture and bring to a boil. Stir in the water. Return to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the chicken is cooked through, about 30 minutes. Stir every 5 to 8 minutes and scrape the bottom of the pan to keep the sauce from sticking. Then uncover and cook 5 more minutes to reduce and thicken. Stir in the cilantro and lemon juice. Taste for salt and serve hot.

I modified slightly this wonderful slow-cooked recipe from Gourmet magazine. The mellow heat of the chilies fit melodiously atop the harmony of the sweet maple syrup and lime, supported by the bitter undertones of coffee.

INGREDIENTS
2 dried ancho chiles (also known as pasillio chilies), stemmed, seeded, and ribs discarded
2 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed, seeded, and ribs discarded
2 cups boiling-hot water
1 medium onion, quartered
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp finely chopped canned chipotle chiles in adobo plus 2 tsp adobo sauce
2 tbsp and 1 tsp pure maple syrup
1 tbsp fresh lime juice
1 tbsp salt
6 lb beef short ribs (bone-in)
1 tsp black pepper
1 tbsp vegetable oil
½ cup brewed coffee

PREPARATION

Soak ancho chiles in boiling-hot water until softened, about 20 minutes, then drain in a colander set over a bowl. Taste soaking liquid: It will be a little bitter, but if unpleasantly so, discard it; otherwise, reserve for braising. Transfer chiles to a blender and purée with onion, garlic, chipotles with sauce, maple syrup, lime juice, and 1 teaspoon salt.

Pat ribs dry and sprinkle with pepper and remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown ribs in 3 batches, turning occasionally, about 5 minutes per batch. Transfer as browned to a roasting pan just large enough to hold ribs in 1 layer.

Carefully add chile purée to fat remaining in skillet (it will spatter and steam) and cook over moderately low heat, stirring frequently, 5 minutes. Add reserved chile soaking liquid (or 1 1/2 cups water) and coffee and bring to a boil, then pour over ribs (liquid should reach about halfway up sides of meat).

Cover roasting pan tightly with foil and braise ribs until very tender, 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Skim fat from pan juices. Serve ribs with pan juices.

Cooks' note:
Ribs improve in flavor if braised 2 days ahead. Cool completely, uncovered, then chill, ribs covered directly with parchment or wax paper and roasting pan covered with foil. Remove any solidified fat before reheating.

Makes 6 servings.

I've shamelessly swiped this recipe, which originally came from Ruth Reichl's Comfort Me With Apples. I haven't actually made it but it looked so incredibley appetizing and I know that Cherie will love it.

INGREDIENTS
½ pound of thinly sliced mushrooms
½ stick of butter
1 small onion, diced
4 tbsp of flour
1 cup of beef broth (I used a couple of spoonfuls of liquid beef broth concentrate in a scant cup of water)
2 cups half and half (I only had whole milk and so used that. Turned out find)
salt
pepper
¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
1 bay leaf

PREPARATION

• Melt butter over medium heat in a heavy saucepan. When foam subsides, add onion and saute until golden.
• Add mushrooms and saute until brown.
• Stir in flour and then slowly whisk in broth. Add seasonings.
• Heat half and half (or milk) on the stove or in the microwave and slowly add to pot. Whisk again to ensure that everything is incorporated.
• Simmer on low for ten minutes (do not boil). Taste a few minutes in to see if the seasonings work for you and whether you think it needs a shot of brandy or sherry!

This is Emril Lagasse's recipe and can be found at: http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/recipes/recipe/0,,FOOD_9936_31919,00.html

INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cups chopped yellow onions
1 cup chopped celery
1 cup chopped carrots
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons minced garlic
8 cups peeled, seeded, and chopped fresh tomatoes
1 1/2 quarts chicken broth
Vegetable oil, for frying
6 ounces goat cheese, room temperature
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped basil, plus 4 to 6 tablespoons chiffonade, for garnish
12 wonton wrappers
1/4 cup water
Essence, recipe follows
1/4 cup finely chopped parsley leaves
1/2 cup heavy cream

PREPARATION

In a large saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions, celery, and carrots. Season the vegetables with salt, pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne. Saute the vegetables for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and tomatoes. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often. Add the chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour and 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Preheat the fryer or a heavy saucepot filled no more than halfway with vegetable oil to 375 degrees F. Prepare the dumplings while the soup is simmering and fry just before serving the soup.

In a small mixing bowl, combine the goat cheese, extra-virgin olive oil, and chopped basil. Mix until the mixture is fully incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Spoon 1 rounded teaspoon of the cheese mixture in the center of each wonton wrapper. Brush the edges of the wrappers with a small amount water. Bring 2 corners of the wrappers together and press to seal, forming a triangle. Fry the wontons for about 2 minutes each or until the dumplings are golden and crispy. Remove from the fryer and drain on a paper-lined plate. Season the dumplings with Creole Seasoning, to taste.

Remove the soup from the heat. Using a hand-held blender, puree the soup. Stir in the parsley. Adjust the seasonings with salt and pepper, if needed. Stir in the heavy cream.

Ladle the soup in a shallow bowls. Garnish each bowl with 2 dumplings and a chiffonade of fresh basil.

Creole Seasoning:
2 1/2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon black pepper
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 tablespoon dried thyme

Combine all ingredients thoroughly.

Yield: 2/3 cup

INGREDIENTS
2 russet (baking) potatoes
2 medium carrots, cut into ¼-inch dice
2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch dice
3 garlic cloves, chopped fine
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 pound green lentils, picked over and rinsed (about 2 cups)
8 cups low-salt chicken broth

Garnish: chopped fresh parsley leaves

PREPARATION

• Peel potatoes and cut into 1/4-inch dice.


• In a 5- to 6-quart heavy kettle cook potatoes, carrots, celery, garlic, and onion in butter over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until onion is softened, about 4 minutes.


• Add lentils, broth, and salt and pepper to taste and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 45 minutes, or until vegetables are tender and soup is thickened.


• Serve soup garnished with parsley.

This is one of my favorite dishes of all time, regardless of classification as haute cuisine or comfort food. And what could be better for you? As wonderful as fresh Spring peas are, this soup made from dried peas rocks and couldn't be simpler. Just as I look for an excuse to make a leg of lamb so I have leftovers for curry, the need for split peas soup causes me to want to cook a ham. Of course, a smoked ham hock works nicely, too! Its about as simple to make as any meal I know. Enjoy.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb split peas, picked over - yellow and/or green, whatever is your pleasure
2 qt water
1/2 lb meaty salt pork (rinsed if crusted with salt), cut into 1/2-inch cubes, or a meaty ham bone or ham hock
2 large yellow onions onions (5 medium), finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ tsp dried savory, crumbled
½ tsp dried sage
1 tsp fresh thyme
1 tsp fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

PREPARATION

• Rinse peas and combine in a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot with water, salt pork, and half of onions.
• Bring to a boil, skimming froth, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until peas are tender but not falling apart, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
• Cook leek and remaining onions in butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add to soup along with chives, savory, salt, and pepper and continue to simmer, partially covered, until peas are falling apart and soup is thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
• Remove ham bone or ham hock, if using, then shred meat and return meat to soup.

As promised, a more rustic and lovely white bean soup.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb of white beans - Canellini or Great Northern
2 quarts of water
2-3 lbs of ham hocks or cut-up shanks
1 cup of diced onions
1 cup chopped celery
3 russet potatoes peeled and diced
2/3 cup chopped carrots
2 cloves garlic, diced
½ tsp oregano leaves
1 tsp fresh thyme (or ½ tsp dried)
½ tsp basil leaves
½ tsp sage leaves
½ tsp savory
1 tsp fresh rosemary (or ½ tsp dried)
Salt and pepper
Herbes de Provence
Fresh flat leaf parsley

PREPARATION

• 1 Soak the beans in at least 2 quarts of cold water for about 2 hrs or (preferabley) overnight. Drain the water.
• Put the ham shank pieces in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for one hour. Add the chopped vegetables and beans. Cook for another hour, until the vegetables are soft and the ham meat easily pulls away from the bone.
• Add the oregeno, thyme, basil, sage, savory and rosemary. If you like a little zing, throw in a ¼ tsp of cayenne or a few dashes of tobasco sauce.
• Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a pinch of chopped fresh parsley.