January 16, 2008

Steak au Poivre

This classic preparation is a very versatile way of preparing steak - a little more trouble than just grilling it, but a method that works equally well with a humble skillet steak or a lovely New York Strip.

I recommend crushing putting them in a frying pan, and than crushing them with the (clean!) bottom of a small or medium size pan. Pepper grinders don't have a sufficiently coarse setting.

INGREDIENTS
Sauce
4 tbsp unsalted butter
1 medium shallot , minced
1 cup low-sodium beef broth
¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup brandy
1 additional tbsp brandy
1 tsp lemon juice or 1 teaspoon champagne vinegar
Table salt

Steaks
4 strip steaks (8 to 10 ounces each), ¾ to 1 inch thick and no larger than 3 inches at widest points, trimmed of exterior gristle
Table salt
1 tbsp black peppercorns , crushed


PREPARATION

  • Saute shallots in 1 tbsp of butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Add beef and chicken broths, increase heat to high, and boil until reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 8 minutes. Set reduced broth mixture aside. Rinse and wipe out skillet.

  • Sprinkle both sides of steaks with salt; spread crushed peppercorns on one side of each steak, pressing the crushed pieces into the steak so they would adhere.

  • Heat skillet over medium heat for about four minutes - enough that the skillet has enough heat to brown the steaks. Lay steaks unpeppered-side down in hot skillet, increase heat to medium-high, and cook steaks without moving them until well-browned, about 6 minutes. Flip steaks and cook on peppered side, about 3 minutes longer for rare, about 4 minutes longer for medium-rare, or about 5 minutes longer for medium. Transfer steaks to large plate and tent loosely with foil to keep warm.

  • Pour reduced broth, cream, and ¼ cup brandy into now-empty skillet; increase heat to high and bring to boil, scraping pan bottom with wooden spoon to loosen the fond. Simmer until deep golden brown and thick enough to heavily coat back of metal tablespoon or soup spoon, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in remaining 3 tablespoons butter, remaining 1 tablespoon brandy, lemon juice, and any accumulated meat juices. Adjust seasonings with salt.

  • Set steaks on individual dinner plates, spoon portion of sauce over steaks, and serve immediately.

December 30, 2007

Rustic White Bean Soup

As promised, a more rustic and lovely white bean soup.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb of white beans - Canellini or Great Northern
2 quarts of water
2-3 lbs of ham hocks or cut-up shanks
1 cup of diced onions
1 cup chopped celery
3 russet potatoes peeled and diced
2/3 cup chopped carrots
2 cloves garlic, diced
½ tsp oregano leaves
1 tsp fresh thyme (or ½ tsp dried)
½ tsp basil leaves
½ tsp sage leaves
½ tsp savory
1 tsp fresh rosemary (or ½ tsp dried)
Salt and pepper
Herbes de Provence
Fresh flat leaf parsley

PREPARATION

  • 1 Soak the beans in at least 2 quarts of cold water for about 2 hrs or (preferabley) overnight. Drain the water.
  • Put the ham shank pieces in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer for one hour. Add the chopped vegetables and beans. Cook for another hour, until the vegetables are soft and the ham meat easily pulls away from the bone.
  • Add the oregeno, thyme, basil, sage, savory and rosemary. If you like a little zing, throw in a ¼ tsp of cayenne or a few dashes of tobasco sauce.
  • Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve with a pinch of chopped fresh parsley.

December 27, 2007

Orange and Cucumber Salad

INGREDIENTS
1 cucumber
3 oranges
6 small red radishes
Fresh mint leaves
Salt
Extra virgin olive oil
The freshly squeezed juice of ½ lemon

PREPARATION

  • If the cucumber is waxed or has a thick skin, peel it. If not, scrub it under cold running water. Slice the cucumber into very thin disks and put these on a serving platter

  • Peel the oranges, removing all the white pith beneath the skin as well. Cut the oranges into thin rounds, pick out any seeds, and add the slices to the platter.

  • Cut off and discard the leafy tops from the radishes, wash the radishes in cold water, without peeling them, cut them into disks, and add them to the platter.

  • Wash half a dozen small mint leaves, tear them into 2 or 3 pieces each, and sprinkle them over the orange, radish and cucumber slices.

  • Add salt, olive oil, and lemon juice, toss thoroughly to coat well, and serve at once.

December 21, 2007

Lentil Soup

INGREDIENTS
2 russet (baking) potatoes
2 medium carrots, cut into ¼-inch dice
2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch dice
3 garlic cloves, chopped fine
1 medium onion, chopped fine
2 tbsp unsalted butter
1 pound green lentils, picked over and rinsed (about 2 cups)
8 cups low-salt chicken broth

Garnish: chopped fresh parsley leaves

PREPARATION

  • Peel potatoes and cut into 1/4-inch dice.

  • In a 5- to 6-quart heavy kettle cook potatoes, carrots, celery, garlic, and onion in butter over moderate heat, stirring frequently, until onion is softened, about 4 minutes.

  • Add lentils, broth, and salt and pepper to taste and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 45 minutes, or until vegetables are tender and soup is thickened.

  • Serve soup garnished with parsley.


December 20, 2007

Pork Loin Braised in Milk, Bolognese Style

This very simple and classic recipe is from the legenedary Marcella Hazan and remains a perfect example of this classic Bolognese dish. A work of simple genius, this dish has only two ingredients: milk and pork (aside from the oil used to brown the pork) which slowly, completely transform while cooking into a delicate, and delicious dish.

INGREDIENTS
a 2 1/2-pound piece boneless pork shoulder (do not trim fat)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups whole milk

PREPARATION

  • Preheat oven to 350°

  • Pat pork dry and season with salt and pepper. In a 4-quart heavy kettle heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and brown pork on all sides, about 5 minutes total.

  • Carefully add 1 cup of milk to the pork slowly, lest it boil over. Allow the milk to come to a simmer for 20 to 30 seconds, turn the heat down to minimum and cook with lid ajar about 2 hours.

  • Continue to cook pork, partially covered, at a bare simmer until very tender, about 1 hour, turning from time to time, until the milk has thickened, through evaporation, into a nut-brown sauce. When the milk reaches this stage, and not before, add 1 more cup of milk, let it simmer for about 0 minutes, then cover the pot, putting the lid on tightly. Continue to check on and turn the pork from time to time.

  • After 30 minutes, set the lid slightly ajar. continue to cook at minimum heat, and when you see there is no more liquid milk in the pot, add the otehr ½ cup of milk. Continue cooking until the meat feels tender when prodded with a fork and all the milk has coagulated into small nut-brown clusters. Although it will take between 2½ to 3 hours. If, before the meat is fully oooked, you find that the liquid in the pot has evaporated, add another ½ cup of mil, repeating the step if it should become necessary.

  • when the pork has become tneder and all the milk in the pot has thickened into dark clusters,transfer pork to a cutting board and let stand 10 minutes before slicing into 3/8 thick slices.

  • Season cooking liquid generously with salt and pepper and boil until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes.
  • Thinly slice pork and transfer to a platter. Skim fat from cooking liquid and spoon liquid over pork.


December 8, 2007

Chocolate Macadamia Nut Sauce

Simple, delicious.

INGREDIENTS
2/3 cup macadamia nuts (about 3½ ounces)
1 ounce fine quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened)
½ cup sugar
¾cup heavy cream

PREPARATION

  • In a baking pan toast nuts in one layer in middle of oven until golden, about 10 minutes, and cool. Finely chop nuts and chocolate separately.
  • In a dry heavy saucepan cook sugar over moderately low heat, stirring slowly with a fork to help sugar melt evenly), until melted and pale golden.
  • Cook caramel, without stirring, swirling pan, until deep golden.
  • Remove pan from heat and carefully add cream down side of pan (mixture will bubble and steam).
  • Simmer mixture, stirring occasionally, until caramel is dissolved. Stir in chocolate and nuts.
  • Cool sauce 10 minutes and in a food processor blend until smooth.

Serve sauce warm. Sauce may be made 1 week ahead and chilled, covered. Reheat sauce to warm before serving.

December 7, 2007

Bourbon Butterscotch Sauce

Imagine this on Cheesecake...or pecan or walnut pie....

INGREDIENTS
1½ cups sugar
½ cup water
½ cup bourbon
¾ stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter

PREPARATION

  • In a dry 3-quart heavy kettle cook sugar over moderately low heat, stirring slowly with a fork (to help sugar melt evenly), until melted and pale golden.
  • Cook caramel, without stirring, swirling kettle, until deep golden.
  • Remove kettle from heat and carefully add water and bourbon down side of kettle (mixture will bubble and steam).
  • Simmer mixture, stirring, until caramel is dissolved. Stir in butter until incorporated and cool sauce to warm.

Butterscotch bourbon sauce may be made 1 week ahead and chilled covered. Reheat sauce to warm before serving.

December 2, 2007

Split Pea Soup

This is one of my favorite dishes of all time, regardless of classification as haute cuisine or comfort food. And what could be better for you? As wonderful as fresh Spring peas are, this soup made from dried peas rocks and couldn't be simpler. Just as I look for an excuse to make a leg of lamb so I have leftovers for curry, the need for split peas soup causes me to want to cook a ham. Of course, a smoked ham hock works nicely, too! Its about as simple to make as any meal I know. Enjoy.

INGREDIENTS
1 lb split peas, picked over - yellow and/or green, whatever is your pleasure
2 qt water
1/2 lb meaty salt pork (rinsed if crusted with salt), cut into 1/2-inch cubes, or a meaty ham bone or ham hock
2 large yellow onions onions (5 medium), finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ tsp dried savory, crumbled
½ tsp dried sage
1 tsp fresh thyme
1 tsp fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

PREPARATION

  • Rinse peas and combine in a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot with water, salt pork, and half of onions.
  • Bring to a boil, skimming froth, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until peas are tender but not falling apart, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
  • Cook leek and remaining onions in butter in a large heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add to soup along with chives, savory, salt, and pepper and continue to simmer, partially covered, until peas are falling apart and soup is thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours.
  • Remove ham bone or ham hock, if using, then shred meat and return meat to soup.

November 29, 2007

White Bean Soup with Chili Paste

This is a showy, formal dinner soup that you puree until smooth - both soup and chili paste. It can make for a beautiful presentation, particularly when you get creative in adding the bright orange chili paste to the white soup. I'll have to post a more rustic white bean soup (perhaps an Italian Wedding soup?) for the comofort food alternative!

INGREDIENTS
Chile paste:
2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded
1 dried chile de árbol, stemmed, seeded

1 1/2 cups water
1 tbsp dark brown sugar
3 tbsp vegetable oil

Soup:
2 cups dried Great Northern beans

PREPARATION
For chile paste:

  • Place chiles in bowl; add enough water to cover. Let stand at room temperature overnight. Drain.
  • Boil 1 1/2 cups water, sugar, and chiles in small saucepan until 2 tablespoons liquid remain, about 15 minutes.
  • Transfer to processor; puree until smooth. With machine running, gradually add oil. Season with salt and pepper.

For Soup:


  • Place beans in large pot. Add enough water to cover by 4 inches. Let soak overnight.

    Drain beans.

  • Melt butter in same pot over medium-high heat.
  • Add celery, carrot, onion, and garlic; cook until soft, stirring often, about 15 minutes.
  • Add beans and 8 cups water. Bring to boil, reduce heat to low, and cook until beans are soft, stirring occasionally, about 1 1/2 hours.
  • Stir in cumin and coriander; cool.
  • Working in batches, puree soup in blender, adding water by 1/4 cupfuls if too thick. Return to same pot.
  • Stir in cream. Season with salt and pepper.

Divide among bowls. Drizzle with chile paste. Swirl paste into soup; serve.

November 15, 2007

Ossobuco

Probably the signature dish from Milan, ossobuco is a lovely treatment of braised veal shanks well worth the trouble. Make sure that you have the shank cut into slices no thicker than 1½ inches, for this is the size at which they cook best. Any thicker and the meat ends up either under-cooked or chewy and stringy. This is a dish you want to make sure to give the cooking time it needs - slow and patient cooking is essential.

INGREDIENTS
1 cup onion chopped fine
2/3 cup carrot chopped fine
2/3 cup celery chopped fine
4 tbsp (½ stick) butter
1 tsp garlic chopped fine
2 strips lemon peel with none of the white pith beneath it.
1/3 cup vegetable oil
8 1½-inch-thick slices of veal hind shank, each tied tightly around the middle
Flour, spread on a plate
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup beef or veal stock (preferabley home made)
1½ cups canned plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with their juice.
½ tsp fresh thyme or ¼ tsp dried thyme
2 bay leaves
2 or 3 sprigs of parsley
Black pepper, ground fresh from the mill
Salt

PREPARATION

  • Preheat oven to 350°

  • Choose a pot with a heavy bottom or of enameled cast iron that can accomodate all the veal shanks in a single layer. Put in the onion, carrot, celery, and butter and turn on the heat to medium. Cook for about 6 to 7 minutes, add the chopped garlic and lemon peel, cook another 2 or 3 minutes until the vegetables soften and wilt, then remove from heat.

  • Put the vegetable oil in a skillet and turn on the heat to medium high. Turn the veal shanks in the flour, coating them all over and shaking off the excess flour.

Note: Do not flour the veal, or anything else that needs to be browned, in advance because the flour will become soggy and make it impossible to acheive a crisp surface.

  • When the oil is quite hot - it should sizzle when the veal goes in - slip the shanks and brown them deeply all over. Remove them from the skillet using a slotted spoon or spatula, and stand them side by side over the chopped vegetables in the pot.
  • Tip the skillet and spoon off all but a little bit of the oil. Add the wine, reduce it by simmering it over medium heat while scraping loose with a wooden spoon the browning residues stuck to the bottom and sides. Pour the skillet juices over the veal in the pot.
  • Put the broth in the skillet, bring it to a simmer, and add it to the pot. Also add the chopped tomatoes with their juice, the thyme, the bay leaves, parsely, pepper, and salt. The broth should have come two-thirds of the way up to th top of the shanks. If it does not, add more.
  • Bring the liquids in the pot to a simmer, cover the pot tightly, and place it in the lower third of the preheated oven. Cook for about 2 hours or until the meat feels very tender when prodded with a fork and a dense, creamy sauce has formed. Turn and baste the shanks every 20 minutes. If, while the ossobuco is cooking, the liquid in the pot becomes insufficient, add 2 tbsp of water at a time, as needed.
  • When the ossobuco is done, transfer it to a warm platter, carefully remove the trussing strings without letting the shanks come apart, pour the asuce in the pot over them, and serve at once. if the pot juices are too thin and watery, place the pot over a burner with high heat, boil down the excess liquid, then pour the reduce juices over the ossobuco on the platter.

Gremolada
If you wish to observe ossobuco tradition strictly, you must add an aromatic mixture called gremolada to the shanks, when they are nearly done. It is optional and simple:

1 tsp grated lemon peel, taking care to avoid white pith
¼ tsp garlic chpped very, very fine
1 tbsp chopped parsley

Combine the ingredients evenly and sprinkle the mixture over the shranks while they are cooking but when they are done, so that the gremolada, add it only when reheating the meat.